For those of you who have been lucky enough to have received a dual pump quick spool kit we have an engineering update for you brought to you by our friends at Speedfactory Racing who have provided us some independent testing on the fluid dynamics of the Dual Pump Differential! A while ago we received some support from “James Kempf” of Speedfactory Racing who was able to provide us some much needed information on the stock flowing capabilities and pressure for the stock dual pump assembly and modified ones! This information is to aid in providing more performance attributes to the dual pump assembly and increase clamping load to the differential clutch assembly!
The initial baseline testing revealed a 60.53 psi pressure generated through the clutch piston assembly that would typically be supplied to the piston assembly to engage and disengage the clutches. This is the base pressure from Honda generated using an inline pressure sensor drilled through the dual pump piston assembly and supplied through the oil seals on the primary pump!
With the Quick Spool kit installed James went for another test this time revealing 78.30 PSI worth of pressure generated by the pump thus increasing the hydraulic pressure generated to move the piston assembly and engage the clutches. Again this testing was done with pneumatics and a pressure sensor drilled through a sealed dual pump piston assembly.
With this above mentioned configuration James was able to see a dramatic increase in performance on his Turbo Honda CR-V project after the Racing Diffs Clutches were broken in correctly. However where we made our mistake was including the instructions of drilling out the oil orifices in the CR-V Differential Dual Pump assembly so this engineering change should dramatically increase performance full spectrum and allow much needed oil pressure to be supplied to the differential clutch assembly.
With Oil Orifices drilled to 1/8th” and the upgraded springs installed this revealed a 3.71 PSI pressure generated by the dual pump assembly using pneumatics. “Do not drill out the Oil Orifices !” However everyone knows oil is heavier than air and these pressure are done independently using pneumatics and pressure could very slightly but this engineering change allows for the best performance overall.
Continuing from our last post where we disassembled the rear differential from the carrier and talked about what we will be installing into our customers differential. Today we will be removing the nose cap from the differential carrier, the clutch assembly, and the dual pump assembly for the Dual Pump Quick Spool Mod and Racing Diffs Clutch Upgrade Install! So without further adieu Lets Get it!
To begin this process we will need to get some tools like last time to prepare for our disassembly! I’d recommend a “Strait Blade Screw Driver” always at the ready! But here are the tools that will be required to accomplish this task!
3/8ths” Drive Ratchet.
3/8ths” Drive 3″ extension.
3/8ths” 8mm 6pt Socket.
1/2″ Drive Ratchet or Breaker Bar.
1/2″ Drive 24mm or 34mm Socket.
1/4″ Drive Ratchet.
1/4″ Drive 6mm Socket.
1/4″ Drive 3″ Extension.
Driveshaft Flange Support Bar.
6″ Long #3 Strait Blade Screw Driver.
Small Center Punch.
Small Razor for Gasket removal.
45 Degree Scribe.
Differential Nose Cap Removal
First I needed to get some illustrations from the CRV Master Service Manual. I acquired them from Honda thanks to a couple of good friends! This should help support this episode for you all to follow along. The procedure is pretty strait forward. Using a center punch you will need to take your hammer and remove the dimple on the pinion nut that locks the differential pinion nut. This dimple keeps the pinion nut from backing off and from loosening under normal driving conditions.
While supporting the weight of the differential install the driveshaft flange support bar and hardware onto the U joint flange of the differential. Install the driveshaft flange support bar onto the differential and grab your 1/2″ drive breaker bar and (24mm or 34mm) socket. Place the socket into the differential and break the TQ of the 24mm pinion nut and remove it.
Next we will remove the 8x8mm bolts from the differential nose cap cover. Pay particular attention to not strip the bolts when removing them. Using your 3/8ths” drive ratchet, 3/8ths” drive 3″ extension, and 3/8ths” Drive 8mm 6pt socket remove all 8 bolts from the differential nose cap cover and place them in a safe area.
Once this step is complete use your 6″ strait blade screw driver and pry-bar to separate the nose cap cover from the differential by prying at the separation tabs on the nose cap and carrier assembly. Remove the nose cap cover over your drain pan to alleviate spills and messes. Separate the nose cap cover from the differential carrier assembly and place in a safe location. This should expose the differential TCD and Dual Pump Assembly.
Remove the differential clutch assembly and clutch cage by lifting them from the pinion shaft and placing them to the side. Warning! The TCD Clutch RAMP Assembly for the 2006 – 2011 RT-AWD differential have 8 small ball bearings that ride under the clutch assembly. Use caution when removing. Any damage to these ball bearings will render the TCD clutch RAMP assembly non-operational.
Dual Pump Assembly Removal!
I think it’s important to give some characteristics of both differential dual pump assemblies we support! At first glance the dual pump assemblies from the 1997-2005 CRV are noticeably different in size.
Carrier Assembly Preparation!
Using your strait blade screw driver use the side of the case to gain leverage to pry the strainer from the carrier assembly. *CAUTION! Please be careful not to damage the screen of the strainer during removal.
In the next part of this build documentary we will perform the inspection of the internal differential components We will then compare the older CRV differential carrier assembly to the new and remove the pinion from the differential for bearing inspection. Stay tuned and we will be back soon! Thanks for following!
So to Kick this off. We are working on a 2006 CRV Differential for our customers build! This differential will receive the GEAR-X/ GTS Motorsports Torsen Rear LSD, Dual Pump Quick Spool Kit installation and Racing Diffs Molybdenum Ceramic Clutch Upgrade as well as a full rebuild with OEM Honda Bearings, Seals, Gaskets, Oil Seals and completely cleaned inside and out before assembly. This will be of many new differential builds from a service we now offer here at Automotive Koncepts & Designs Inc. The service allows for many upgrades from our inventory and Partner/ Manufacturers and features the best components and innovations from our collaborations. In this build segment today we will be removing the Differential from the Carrier and discussing the process of the build.
For this operation we will require a marinate of tools but nothing out of the ordinary! First you will need a long “Strait Blade Screw Driver” a 3/8ths” Drive Ratchet, 3/8ths” driver 12MM 6pt Socket, a bucket to drain your Dual Pump Fluid into, a tray to capture spills and a bag to catalog your hardware removed from the differential. Id advise also carrying a 45 degree scribe and definitely have gloves because this can get really messy!
To start lets drain your differential! Remove the Drain Plug and Fill Plug from the side of the Differential. The Drain and Fill ports are 3/8ths” drive ratchet hex so use the ratchet with a 3″ extension so you have room for clearance to turn the ratchet. Turn the ratchet counter-clockwise to remove the fill and drain ports from the differential and prepare your bucket and spill tray to receive Dual Pump Fluid!
Once the ports have been removed turn the differential onto its side and drain until empty. Next task to remove the differential from the carrier is to remove the differential tail cover bolts. For this you will need the 3/8ths” drive Ratchet and the 12mm, 6pt, 3/8ths” drive socket and you will break the TQ on the differential cover bolts.
Note: The differential cover on the dual pump differential also acts as the differential bearing retainer! Exercise caution when removing the hardware as the differential could inadvertently separate once the hardware is removed from the diff cover if not properly sealed.
Repeat the steps of removing the differential tail cover hardware until complete. Store all of your removed hardware in a safe location or in a bag labeled by where it was removed from and the date removed.
Once the hardware has been removed and stored use your Strait Blade Screw Driver to separate the tail cover from the carrier assembly by prying against the “Separation Tabs” on the top and sides of the differential.
Once the Differential is separated from the Carrier use the 45 degree Scribe to remove the differential Alignment shims from the differential tail cover assembly.
Once removed from the carrier and tail cover place the differential in a safe area laying against the bearing surface not the ring gear for storage. but be sure to remove the .030 Shims from either side of the differential bearings first.
For this build we will not be utilizing the factory Differential so no need to do anything with it at the moment. Disassembly will continue every day this week. Walk through this process with us while we explain the rebuild process and the amazing performance products we will be installing into it. Thanks for viewing! More coming this week!